Her sculptural and sustainable designs, which count Erykah Badu as a fan, pay homage to the Maasai’s cultural traditions and are imbued with plenty of ’70s vibes. Trends aside, though, Lee Roach maintains that Needle+Thræd is ultimately about giving back. “The artisans I work with are the driving force and central focus of what I do,” she says. “Preserving cultural craft, sharing stories, and creating an income doing what they know and love is how the idea for Needle+Thræd was birthed.” A trip to Nakuru, Kenya, last year only solidified this notion and gave rise to her first collection, Blank Canvas.
Here, the jewelry designer tells us how she works her chokers into her own wardrobe, how to strike the perfect balance with the standout accessory, and the mix-master lessons she picked up in Kenya.
Is the Choker an Update or a Throwback?
“The choker obviously isn’t a new accessory, but its resurgence, and working this piece into a current look, makes it feel fresh again. Since it’s framing your face, it’s the first accessory someone is likely to see, so it sets the tone of the look. It can transform a look into a ’70s or ’90s moment instantly if I’m sporting it with a flow-y silk cami and my light-washed Levi’s 501s, or it can elevate a very basic tee. It can even take an outfit to a place that feels very Fifth Element futuristic.”
Enhance the Neck—Not “Cut It Off”
“The choker can certainly stand alone as a central piece, which is a great complement to sleek silhouettes I wear. On the opposite end of the spectrum, it’s a clean finish to a busy mix-print moment. Layering multiple styles is unexpected, so I love that as well, since it attracts just the right amount of attention. Striking a balance is important, so as not to appear as if you’re wearing a neck brace! I like to enhance my neck, not ‘cut it off,’ so to speak. I’d also have to say my favorite way to wear the choker is mixed with a very delicate chain with a single diamond. I recently treated myself to one by Vrai & Oro. The combination of the two feels very personal.”
The Kenyan Art of Layering Fabric and Jewelry
“Major layering, from jewelry to fabrics and pattern mixing, is something you see all over Kenya. It’s where I was inspired to layer chokers and wear them around my body in different ways. Erykah Badu actually took a few of my styles to the next level and wrapped them around her legs on a recent shoot in Kenya! I have also started draping fabrics and knotting them in a cape-like fashion over the shoulders, which is something the Maasai do with their traditional shuka fabrics. It’s also very practical for transitioning weather; you can easily fold the fabric in your bag when it’s warm during the day and wrap up at night. The way the local Kenyans mix brightly patterned kanga fabrics is my favorite.”
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